By David Yeskel
If a committed gourmand could conjure up the ultimate foodie fantasy at sea, the realization of that vision would be an Oceania Cruises voyage. And how do I know this? Well, I just salivated my way through ten delicious days aboard Oceania Riviera, the line’s first ship to restart in the Caribbean, and the withdrawal back to the real world hasn’t exactly been easy.
Operating in a cruise industry segment known as “Upper Premium,” Oceania Cruises inhabits a niche just below ultra-luxury lines like Seabourn, Silversea and Regent Seven Seas – with fares typically below that of those companies. And while the latter cruise lines all provide an outstanding culinary product with delicacies galore, none obsess over it to the extent that Oceania does. And that is their differentiator, which the company repeats loudly and proudly in marketing materials. After all, Oceania had the huevos to trademark the phrase “The Finest Cuisine at Sea,” and it’s not just hype.
But before delving into all the delectable details, a little housekeeping is in order. The line’s OceaniaNEXT enhancement initiative freshened up the 10-year-old, 1,250-passenger Riviera in mid-2019 with a new, modern look in staterooms and suites. And let’s face it, due to the industry-wide pandemic shutdown, the ship hasn’t seen a lot of wear and tear since. A new coffee bar, Baristas, offers all manner of coffee-based beverages including Illy Crema, an Italian frozen coffee drink that is far superior to the familiar version — starting with Frapp… — available in the most ubiquitous U.S. coffee chain. The handsome venue (with great views up on deck 14) also serves tapas and wine in the evening. Stylish modern furnishings adorn all public rooms on Riviera, while the ship boasts a vast and extremely well-curated art collection featuring many expressly-commissioned pieces.

COVID-19 protocols in place at the time of my mid-December sailing included a “strongly suggested” PCR test taken within three days of sailing; a full vaccine mandate for 100% of guests and crew; and a pierside antigen test taken immediately before embarkation. While crew stayed masked for the entire voyage, most guests opted to go mask-free onboard and felt secure with that decision. Guests could explore ports independently, if desired, while masked. Policies and protocols are changing rapidly in the cruise industry, however, to reflect current realities vis-a-vis COVID-19.
Riviera’s 60% guest occupancy cap on my 10-day voyage did have an unintended benefit aside from a favorable 1:1 crew-to-guest ratio: it allowed me to dine twice in each of the ship’s four outstanding specialty restaurants, thus enabling a deeper dive into the essence of Oceania’s culinary fixation.
And that preoccupation with cuisine (some might call it an addictive compulsion, which I certainly wouldn’t disagree with) benefits the rest of us, manifesting itself in delicious experiences all over the ship.
One striking Oceania differentiator is the sheer volume of dishes appearing on specialty restaurant menus. I counted over 50 distinct items available at Jacques, the fine-dining French eatery, where I experienced the best meals I’ve ever had at sea. Starters of crab salad, caramelized duck foie gras and chilled green pea vichyssoise with Iberico ham were absolutely sublime, setting the stage for decadent lobster thermidor and sauteed scallops. Finishing with an authentically perfect chocolate pot de creme and classic crepes Suzettes was magnifique.

And while Jacques’ meticulously-crafted menu achieved perfection, Riviera’s other specialty dining outlets weren’t far behind in terms of quality or quantity. Toscana’s Italian menu has been completely revamped with 21 new dishes including a lusciously-rich tagliolini carbonara and improved classics like the octopus carpaccio appetizer, now drizzled with tangy lemon dressing. Red Ginger’s pan-Asian menu impressed me once again with a delicate miso- glazed sea bass and the outlet’s signature spicy duck and watermelon salad – a creatively-crafted melange of flavors and textures. Meanwhile, the classic fare at Polo Grill, featuring whole Maine lobster and USDA Prime beef, delights guests who also appreciate the venue’s throwback steakhouse atmosphere.
And for those who think that “Lido buffet” and “gourmet” are mutually-exclusive terms, the line’s casual Terrace Cafe busts that mindset by offering complex, delicious options – presented beautifully – for all three meals, including a new made-to-order poke bowl station. Waves Grill, the poolside burger and sandwich spot, also outperforms the standard with the Surf & Turf sandwich: grilled lobster medallions and sliced filet mignon on a toasted ciabatta roll. And the adjacent ice cream station also turns it up a notch with milkshakes, malts and a flavor of the day from San Francisco’s artisan Humphry Slocombe brand. In the realm of cleverly-named ice cream flavors, none beat “Elvis – the Fat Years,” a concoction of banana ice cream with bacon peanut brittle. And yes, it was also delicious.
Meanwhile, the Grand Dining Room, although often overshadowed by the specialty restaurants’ allure, certainly holds its own against the finest shoreside eateries. Oceania’s new “Souffle of the Day” appears here nightly; I savored the Valrhona Guanaja Chocolate Soufflé topped with cacao nibs. And lobster-loving guests certainly have their fill, with at least one lobster item appearing on every dinner menu in every venue – including the Terrace Cafe.
But Oceania’s recipe for success is no secret. The line’s culinary prowess is manifested shipwide and demonstrated daily in menu creativity, variety, quality and authenticity. Oceania’s corporate and shipboard chefs, skilled in preparation and presentation, and provided with top-quality artisanal ingredients, elevate their gourmet dishes to heights not often attained on ships. So what’s the problem with that? I’m now hopelessly spoiled.
Follow Travel Journalist David Yeskel, aka The Cruise Guru on Twitter. Also by David Yeskel: Princess Stages Royal Comeback on West Coast
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